Miranda Oakley Solos The Nose in 21:50!


Miranda Oakley shakes off the Hydraulic Pump (5.12+) Indian Creek, UT.
Miranda Oakley on Hydraulic Pump (5.12+) Indian Creek. [Photo] Austin Siadak

In November 2014, Alpinist Magazine ran a newswire about Chantel Astorga’s attempts to become the first female to solo the nose in a day. She came painfully close, but never broke the mark…

Last year, Chantel’s time of 24:39 was still the mark to beat. Miranda decided to give the SNIAD (Solo Nose In A Day) a shot, and finished in just under 27 hours, on her first attempt ever to solo the nose. I told her that she could do it, and should try again. Miranda explained that she felt kind of tired, that her season was ending, and that she really felt Chantel deserved it more, since she had put in so much more effort to become the first.

Today, I saw a post from Miranda’s dad, George Oakley, on social media. “I just found out that Miranda Oakley did a solo climb of El Cap in 21 hr and 50 min. This broke her old time of just under 27… Way to go Miranda. I hope you don’t have to work today.”

Miranda Oakley on Tales of Power, Yosemite, CA

Miranda Oakley on Tales of Power. [Photo] Matty Van Biene

I’ve just talked to Miranda, and she has corroborated that she has in fact send the SNIAD! Her text to me was as follows: “Yeah! Summer project put to rest. I feel like shit can I call you later? I heard your good news too! Congratulations!!”

I cannot QUITE verify than Chantel, or Pamela, or Libby, or any other badass female climbing in the valley has not very quietly snuck in the first female SNIAD recently while none of us were looking… But I have it on good authority from a couple of bona fide Yosemite monkeys (Alix Morris, and Matt Bento) that IF George is telling the truth, then Miranda IS the first female to send the SNIAD. So, now that Miranda has dropped a line (due to my heavy pestering) I’m saying that’s what’s up. First Female SNIAD: Miranda Oakley!!! Congrats!


This sort of thing is pretty typical Miranda behavior. While many of the pro climbers we all know and admire are in Salt Lake City shmoozing it up at the OR show, Miranda is just quietly making history, grabbing one of the biggest female climbing prizes in the world, and not making a big deal about it. And of course, after sending, she doesn’t contact a climbing media outlet (or her sprayer friend, yours truly), but instead, tells her dad…

In fact, if there is one thing about Miranda more noteworthy than her climbing prowess, it is her humility. I have not personally climbed with a better all around granite climber – male or female – but you’d never hear it from her… The girl has onsighted 5.13, has linked el cap and half dome in a day, has established new routes in El Chalten, Cochamo, and the Sierra, is an AMGA-certified Rock Instructor, guides for the prestigious Yosemite Mountain School, and now has become (as far as I can tell) the first female ever to solo the nose in a day. B-a-d-a-s-s.

To learn more about Miranda, check out this article I wrote about her from Ascent, 2014.

To learn more about her work as a guide for YMS, check out this interview for Adventure Journal.

Miranda Oakley on Tales of Power, Yosemite, CA

Miranda Oakley cruising through the OW on Tales of Power. [Photo] Matty Van Biene

One comment

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s