Monthly Archives: August 2014

The Last Dirtbag

Sometime around last christmas, I was at a party on the East Coast.  I had just finished up a day of gym climbing, or toproping at one of the D.C. area’s less than awe inspiring crags, and walked into the party feeling tired, looking disheveled, and with chalk stains half way up my forearms.  Upon entering, a friend of mine who

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The truth about tricams

I recently saw a post on mountainproject about tricams and all their wonderful versatility and manifold uses. This raised an eyebrow.  Now I HAVE climbed at Looking Glass – the tricam afficionado’s coup de grace to end all tricam bashing arguments – and I climbed there (gasp) without using a single tricam.  It was fine.  Horizontally placed cams were, in

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Destination: Index

You don’t get too many visitors from out of state here at Index.  After all, why would you?  This is Washington – the rainiest state in the lower 48; and Index lies right smack dab in the middle of the wetness.  It must always be raining there, right?  Right… For those of you who still don’t know – the secret

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Words to Live By

John Long has – well, long – been a hero of mine.  He manages to capture not only the voice of a whole generation of climbers in writing, but his physical voice gives such emphatic and dramatic significance to his words that you are left with his thoughts reverberating in your chest.  Here is a fantastic piece, from one of

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The Murder of the Guidebook

Looking around my scattered bookshelf, it occurs to me that I may be horribly antiquated, and outdated.  Old tomes that have gone with me from coast to coast, back and forth.  Some of my only meager possessions.  Now I see decaying bindings, torn and tattered covers from books that were already old when I bought them.  Steinbeck, Camus, Tolstoy, Hemingway,

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